It's absolutely crazy to think that a week ago I was still on Whitney. I've had a week to think about the experience (and produce a special Flash presentation of it for the Visalia Times-Delta which you can view here).
Several months ago, I was asked by Laura at work if I wanted to join her and others on a hike up Mt. Whitney, which she had surmounted less than a year prior at the time with another copy editor from the paper. I enthusiastically agreed, seeing it as an opportunity to do something truly unique in Tulare County. Mt. Whitney it just at the corner of the county in Sequoia National Park between the county and Inyo County and Inyo National Forest. Since I was in the midst of training for a marathon, the thought of topping a 22-mile hike up a 14,505 foot mountain seemed like a piece of cake. I was so wrong.
Hiking Mt. Whitney is not picnic. Aside from the head-pounding altitude, there are 96 relentless switchbacks that are seemingly never ending and so very discouraging. It took 16 hours to get off that freaking mountain, and in just a scant few paragraphs, I will attempt to boil down the experience for you.
We left for the hike on Saturday morning at 4 a.m. We didn't start the hike until 24 hours after this point, but it was important that we arrive to receive our hiking permit first thing in the morning and have a day of camping to acclimate ourselves to the vicious altitude (which, by nominal standards, isn't that bad. I mean, it's no Everest). You would think since Mt. Whitney is in the county, it would be a short drive away. Also, since it's the tallest mountain in the state and the whole 48 contiguous United States, you might think you would see it from my living room window. All not true. Mt. Whitney is on the far eastern side of the Sierra Nevada and Visalia is nestled on the Western side of the range. We had to drive south to Bakersfield to go around the whole freaking range an into Owens Valley, a graben.
Once we made it to Lone Pine, a small town ness led at the base of Mt Whitney (which was in plain view at this point), we went to get our permit. Interesting note about Lone Pine, it is where most of the Westerns during the Golden Age of Hollywood were filmed.
With permit in hand, Laura, myself and Tiffani (my boss at the paper) made our way up to the Whitney Portal where we were to camp. It was a short drive and my car handled it well (though it nearly overheated). The trail begins at 8,000 feet (Owens Valley, a high desert, is 4,000 feet). I wasn't being hammered by the elevation at this point and I spent most of Saturday relaxing, taking in the scenery and preparing my hiking pack.
We started out at 3 in the morning, waking up and having breakfast. The sky was absolutely breathtaking. I have never in my whole life seen such a complete view of the sky. Looking up at that moment made me wish we had reached the summit at midnight. It was truly amazing.
Starting the hike was pretty easy. The first three hours breezed by, and soon the sun was up and we were approaching Trail Camp. Most hikers will hike from the portal to Trail Camp before making the final ascent up the mountain. Oh, but not us...we had to do it on one day!
Once I reached the Whitney zone (which required the permit) and Trail Camp, the switchbacks were pretty difficult. They weren't too frequent until beyond Trail Camp, where an endless parade of switchbacks eventually made me a very unhappy camper. At this point, my head was throbbing from the elevation, we were much higher than we were at Alta Peak (nearly 12,000 feet in elevation). I would have to stop at several points just to take a breather until the pounding subsided (which quickly reached its fevered pitch whenever I started the ascent again). I was pretty far ahead of the others (Laura quit early on but Tiffani and her boyfriend Ethan were still with me), but as the elevation had more of an effect on me, I had to slow down and hike with the group.
We reached Trail Crest, a feat in of itself, and we entered Sequoia National Park on the western side of the mountain. I thought we were nearly done, but the trail continued for another two grueling hours (but minus the switchbacks, thankfully. Just a steady steep grade, oh joy!) At times during this point, Tiffani and Ethan were far ahead of me, as the elevation wreaked havoc on my head. I caught up though.
After what seemed like forever, we finally reached the summit and I plopped myself on a rock and enjoyed some lunch. Some fearless birds came along and shared some of my lunch with me, it was pretty cool. But, as is all too true with hikes like this, reaching the top is only half of the story. The hike down was just brutal.
I reached the trail head at just after 8 p.m. (we reached the summit at 1 p.m. but didn't leave until 2 p.m.) The hike down was by far the worst part. I relied heavily on my filter water bottle since I had run completely out of bottled water. By the time I reached Trail Camp, I had so many blisters on my feet, but I knew resting every few hundred feet would only mean my blistered would get worse having to endure longer on the mountain, so I tore it up on the way down. I didn't care how much my feet hurt, I wanted to be off that mountain as quickly as possible. I was so relieved when I reached my car, I felt like bursting into tears, that's how significant the moment was.
So, having reflected on the hike, I feel confident in saying the hike was so much worse than running a marathon. Granted, it was only 22 miles, but you have no idea how long a hiking mile is until you've actually tried it. It's no picnic. Also, at least the marathon was over in 5 hours. If I have to spend 16 hours on a mountain more than 2 miles from a comfortable tent and sleeping bag ever again in my life, it will be too soon.
But, who am I kidding? I said I'd never run a marathon again, and just this week I resolved to run the inaugural Georgia Marathon with Marilia on March 25, 2007. Who knows, I may be taking a trip up Whitney next year.
If you feel up to it, do let me know.
See all my photos posted at my Flickr page by clicking here.